Desplazarse por las cinco o seis manzanas que ocupa el mercado de artesanías puede llegar a ser un desafío no solo por la multitud de gente, sino también por la gran cantidad de puestos esparcidos en forma irregular.  Sin embargo, la amabilidad de la gente, la energía de los vendedores así como los diferentes ritmos de música que pueden oírse por radios y altavoces hacen del corazón del pueblo una animada fiesta en la que no se puede dejar de participar.

La belleza de las otavaleñas y su vestimenta tradicional le dan al espacio una magia singular: faldas azules de entramado de telar, una blusa blanca primorosamente bordada y una faja multicolor.  El renegrido cabello largo, atado con una cinta de lana de vivos colores, resalta el brillo de los collares de mostacillas y aretes de plata.  Muchas de las vendedoras, en particular las de mayor edad, hablan quechua como primera lengua y tienen un mínimo conocimiento del castellano.

La Plaza de los Ponchos se reserva exclusivamente para la venta de artesanías, mientras que en los alrededores de la plaza se venden una infinidad de productos, algunos de producción artesanal, otros de fabricación industrial.  Al igual que en otros mercados de artesanías indígenas América Latina, entre los objetos hechos a mano localmente, se ven algunos manufacturados en China.   Son varias las vendedoras que comentan que las empresas chinas, en los últimos años, han comenzado a copiar las artesanías otavaleñas para venderlas en el exterior como originales.   También muchas de ellas confiesan haber perdido sus hijos a la migración a Europa o a los Estados Unidos, donde se ganan la vida vendiendo la artesanías manufacturadas por sus familiares.  Algunas de ellas mismas han cruzado las fronteras, llegando hasta México en busca de clientela, sin embargo, al poco tiempo han regresado a Ecuador debido a que el cambio del peso a dólar, no les compensa el costo y el esfuerzo del viaje.

Otra gran atracción es el mercado de mercado animales que funciona exclusivamente los sábados desde las cuatro hasta las once de la mañana.  Allí asisten los habitantes del área de Imbarabura y provincias cercanas para vender y comprar vacas, caballos, cerdos, todo tipo de aves y los muy apreciados cuyes (o cobayos), que son parte de la dieta de los habitantes de la región andina.   Además se pueden adquirir recados, lazos, monturas, granos y forraje.   A lo alto de una loma próxima al área de venta de animales se encuentran varios de puestos de comida, estratégicamente situados para atraer con el olor a guiso a los transeúntes.   El menú consiste en una variedad de platos tradicionales del país: locro, encebollado, cuy asado y patacones (o tostones).

Otavalo es una de las imperdibles atracciones del Ecuador.  Más allá de la belleza única de sus artesanías, el mercado es una manifestación tangible de la riqueza étnica y cultural de la diversa sociedad andina y de los pueblos que han sabido mantener sus tradiciones gracias a la persistencia y sabiduría de las mujeres y los hombres indígenas.  Los artesanos otavaleños, a través de su arte y sus costumbres milenarias, rescatan una genealogía del ser latinoamericano que se yuxtapone al consumismo y producción masivos de la globalización.

I entered the market zone early in the morning, before 9 a.m., through the side street of the Santo Tomás de Chichicastenango church, and as I was fortunate enough to be there during Lent, I was witness to a an astonishing display of flowers, candles, “ofrendas,” and altars that are traditional during this part of the Catholic calendar.

The activities inside the church and in the surrounding areas are an example of the religious syncretism that is prevalent in this area of the Guatemalan Maya world. I returned to the church twice during the day just to sit and be a witness to the ceremonies and celebrations.

The market area around the church is crowded with stands that sell the necessary elements for “ofrendas.” The rest of the market is divided into areas that feature textiles, crafts, fruit and vegetables, meats, food stalls. In the peripheral streets surrounding the market, there are live animals for sale.

      The market at Chichicastenango is truly marvelous. In addition to being organized by areas and having stalls with established locations, there is a tradition of people from nearby areas coming to the market once a week to buy and sell their own products. In some corners of the streets where the market functions, there are signs indicating the name of the street and the market zone, but in many instances the visitor will need to rely on landmarks or other visual clues to get a sense of direction inside the market.

I went to the Chichicastenango market thinking that because it is a typical tourist destination, vendors would be more receptive to giving interviews. Unfortunately, my assumption turned out be incorrect. The owners and sellers at a variety of food stalls were very reluctant to engage in conversation. Some of them asked me to return several times, which I did, but at each instance there was a new reason for not engaging with me. Some of the women were willing to talk but did not allow me to record, photograph, or videotape any of our interactions. I need to return to Chichicastenango and spend more time walking, smelling, tasting, making connections, and learning. It is a magical place.

In such a large city it is obvious that there will be a variety of markets. For example, on the way from the airport to the historic center, one can go through a beautiful flower market called Jamaica. The diversity of flowers and color palette that is visible just with a drive through is astonishing. There are flower arrangements ready for sale and a buzz of people preparing wreaths and bouquets, people walking and examining the different flowers and plants, and of course, the air is sweet.

This is a short essay about the Sonora market, one of the largest and most popular markets in Ciudad de México. It’s open every day of the week, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. I walked through the market on Tuesday, May 15, very early in the morning, before the official opening of stalls. I entered through the area dedicated to toys, and the most prominent ones were stuffed animals of any kind one can imagine. The sellers were arranging the toys and setting up for a hot day under yellow tarps.

The isles inside the market are narrow and some of them are not well-lit. I walked through some of the areas were animals are sold. There are pets, like dogs, cats, and birds but also live animals for consumption, such as rabbits, chicken, pigs, and goats.

Fresh fruits and vegetables as well as the meats are distributed in several areas of the market with a range of prices and quality. It was surprising to see some of the precut pieces of meats wrapped in plastic, and displayed on counter tops with no refrigeration. These sellers are temporary; they set up every day in a specific area of the market, but they do not have the stability of a stall and refrigeration. In this same area of fresh vegetables and meats there is an abundance of stalls that sell kitchen and food-preparation equipment. From slotted spoons to big grilling surfaces, these stalls cater to the needs of kitchens large and small.

The market is not housed inside a building but rather expands through different streets that keep being added to serve as market places/spaces, so much so, that one can cross the Fray Servando Ave. to other parts of the market through an elevated cross walk.

There is also an area for trash that is inside the market. In fact, trucks full of trash share the roads and small aisles with trucks that carry fruits, vegetables, and other products for sale. I spent most of my time in the herbs and natural-medicine sector of the Sonora market.

The following day, Saturday, we ventured into the market around 9:30 in the morning just when all the vendors were starting to set up. Many stalls had not yet opened, so it was much quieter and calmer than going in the afternoon when the market is bustling with people perusing the stalls and wares in the tight aisles. We walked in and immediately saw some tiny women in traditional indigenous attire selling little wooden bookmarks and spoons who were walking around and obviously waiting for people to walk into the market. We were able to do some interviews with these ladies, and while we were talking, I noticed the details on their wares. The bookmarks and spoons were smooth and light wood, and the tops were painted and carved into different birds with bright colors and a smooth varnish adorning it. They were beautiful and obviously took some time to create. We saw some of these women in different places later that day, in the zocalo, walking in the streets and again in the market. I remember thinking about how tired I was from walking around and how I could not  imagine how exhausting it would be to walk around and try to sell wares you have to carry all day. These women are impressive.

Later in the afternoon, Kelly and I returned to Benito Juárez when it was busy again to try and find another woman with whom we could have a conversation. Again, we pushed our way through people in the tight space of the indoor market and pushed our way to the outside with the smells of the food and the heat. We talked to a young, beautiful women in an outdoor stall who was embroidering colorful shirts. There were all different hues of purple and pink and orange and blue in the stacks of the neatly folded shirts. The young woman was kind with a manner that was kind and unaffected. She would look me in the eye and smile as she was talking. As with the other women with whom we had spoken, she was a little timid and then really started to expound on our questions and told us about her life and her work.

I think the atmosphere of this market was an interesting location to conduct interviews. On the one hand, it is noisy and busy so you worry that there is going to be too much background noise; however, on the other hand, the market is a prime location because you can kind of just crowd into the stall and talk, like we did with the lady in the afternoon.

Benito Juárez really captured the spirit of downtown Oaxaca. There are splashes of modernity with keychains, postcards, and mass-produced items like purses and wallets, yet there is beauty and originality everywhere with the handmade items, like the bookmarks and embroidered shirts we saw. I could come to Benito Juárez for everything if I lived in Oaxaca, and one could spend hours strolling through and examining all the wares. I felt slightly overwhelmed when we went in the busy afternoon because it is easy to get lost, but it’s a sort of lost where you are almost adrift and wander and explore new alleys and stalls. There was a sensory overload with the bright colors everywhere and smells I am unable to identify. The combination of colors, foods, smells, and people cannot be replicated. I can still picture this market, and I can’t wait to go back and visit this unique and captivating marketplace.

I remember one day in particular when, breathless, we arrived in the plaza of San Blas and entered the market. This market is filled with light and has a small garden in the center. People throw the seeds and peels of fruit into this garden, which fall beneath the orange flowers. In the back of the market they sell prepared foods, with a surprising quantity of vegan stalls. Without hesitation my three friends and I approach our favorite restaurant. Angelica and Raqual Laura greet us with “hola, amigas!” and pass menus across the counter, though we already know what we want. Raquel Laura prepares juices, one after another: maracuyá and mango, strawberries and milk, green juice.

Angelica sells sandwiches for the price of 4 soles. For the equivalent of 1 dollar one can get a greasy, well-sized sub of vegetable, eggs, and melty Andean cheese. Usually, Raquel Laura drives the conversation here, but when I come here alone, without the other gringas, Angelica is happy to talk. With a bit of trepidation, she allows me to use my voice recorder while we talk about her work in the market and her life at home.She shares her small daily activities and thoughts, and eventually the grander events of her life, sometimes with a smile alongside her tears. We part with a wave and a better knowledge of each other, me wondering if we will see the other again.